AYESHA RASCOE, HOST:
This Guess model in Vogue Magazine has shiny, flowing blond hair, sculpted facial features and a well-toned body. By most standards of modern beauty, flawless - universally attractive, one might say. There's just one problem. She isn't real. The model is AI-generated.
Joining us now to discuss this recently published advertisement and how the fashion world is using AI is Rachel Tashjian. She's a fashion critic for the Washington Post. Thanks for being with us, Rachel.
RACHEL TASHJIAN: Thank you for having me.
RASCOE: Just how big of a deal is this?
TASHJIAN: You know, it's hard to know how much Vogue knew about the content of this advertisement before it was in the pages, but it's not like this is Vogue making its first big statement about how it will utilize AI. At the same time, though, we tend to see Vogue Magazine, in fashion and, I think, in popular culture, as the authority of fashion. So when something is in Vogue, whether it's an advertisement or not, it feels like fashion is making a statement.
RASCOE: We've reached out to Guess for comment and haven't heard back, but there's been a real backlash to this. Why do you think people are up in arms?
TASHJIAN: I think Guess is a brand that really loves to court controversy. They, in the past, have faced accusations of using unsafe labor conditions. They continued to operate in Russia after that country invaded Ukraine in 2022. So I think this is part of their business strategy, but I do think that it is very easy for consumers to see the potential pitfalls of AI models, particularly with this one, who is, as you pointed out, so stereotypical.
RASCOE: What kind of signal do you think that sends to potential models and customers?
TASHJIAN: You know, for the past five or even 10 years, there's been this huge push - even from the very top of fashion, like, in these big designer fashion houses - to diversify their models. And it feels as if the combination of drugs like Ozempic and the introduction of AI is making those conversations disappear.
RASCOE: This also brings up a practical question. If the point of a fashion ad is to show off clothes and I'm a consumer, how can I be sure how something really fits if the model isn't even a real person?
TASHJIAN: You know, I think the important distinction here is that ad campaigns are ultimately about aspiration. It's not just about selling a product. It's about selling a point of view. And so if that point of view or vision is out of reach, I think that that is going to make things difficult for some of these fashion brands.
RASCOE: Well, where are things headed now that AI has made its kind of debut in such a prominent way in this fashion magazine? Is there going to still be a need for models and all of this stuff?
TASHJIAN: For many fashion brands, you know, especially the ones that have a lot of money, you could see brands like that trying to experiment and use AI as some sort of form of commentary. But I think for these brands where the margins are really small, so especially fast fashion brands, AI models are a potential way for them to save money.
In fact, earlier this summer in New York City, a law was passed called the Fashion Workers Act that requires that companies inform models that an AI likeness of them is being used, and the model has to approve that request. But I'm not sure how much that is going to do to stanch the possibility of AI models becoming much more popular.
RASCOE: That's Washington Post fashion critic Rachel Tashjian. Thanks so much for being with us.
TASHJIAN: Thanks for having me.
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